But in all the organized chaos I've encountered to date, the Indians make them all look like amateurs. There isn't even an attempt to pretend you're following the rules: it's a free for all.
Yet, what astounds me is that in the six weeks that I've been here, I have not seen or heard not even one bang up; nothing, nada, zip!
It is common-place to see 3 and sometimes -- if there are kids -- as many as four people on a motorbike (whether motorcycle or scooter) at a time; its common to to see women in Saris sitting side-saddle on back racing along without a helmet (Only the driver is required to wear one, and around the city few do).
Its hard to describe the madness of everyday traffic here; people slow down as they approach big intersections, but rarely stop: they just merge in, swerving and twisting their way through the chaos that seems to have a rhythm all its own.